Some may wonder how riding 85 miles into relentless headwinds and through two rain storms qualifies as fun, but there is absolute magic in pushing boundaries, exploring and opening oneself up to the remarkable beauty there is in the world.  It makes me feel so alive. left Riga early and enjoyed a quiet glimpse of the ornate buildings and austere Soviet sculpture. 

   
Shortly after getting out of town, things took a turn for the worse as the skies once again opened up, thoroughly drenching me and if that were not enough, I got lost. This path can’t be right. 

 
I eventually figured out my way, and things started to improve as I found myself on a pretty road that took me through small farm towns. Towards lunchtime, I passed a nondescript building from which a wonderful aroma of freshly baking bread was emanating.  

 Naturally I had to stop. Inside I was met with about the most pleasant scene imaginable: a hearty looking man at a large stone bread oven and two younger people shuttling the most gorgeous freshly baked bread rounds, golden brown and topped with toasted seeds, to a drying rack!  

 The owner, Janis, and I ended up having a very animated discussion about bread baking, fermentation, and how important to him it is to maintain traditional local sources of rye flour and the labor intensive techniques that distinguishes truly delicious bread. Needless to say, the bread was amazing, in fact maybe the best ever.  

 I also bought a dozed oatmeal cookies! And Janis even have me a small parting good luck gift to carry with me to Athens. What a beautiful and serendipitous moment. Fortified, I jumped back on my bike and spent the next 15 miles on a dirt road cutting through farms and fields of golden grain, some perhaps providers of rye flour for Janis.  

 Fresh bread and a pretty gravel road make for  smiles.

Into Lithuania, and another deluge. Still soaked, I rode by a 200 year old pilgrimage site called the hill of crosses, which had a haunting beauty to it. I think the Virgin of Guadalupe was right at home.