Sometimes the most rich and memorable experiences occur when you get lost. I say this having plenty of experience, and seem to be accumulating more daily. I couldn’t help reflecting on this early this morning when I left my little hotel only to find that the arduous 3 km climb that concluded my day yesterday could have been avoided by taking a flat road that somehow I missed. But had I not taken a wrong turn, I would have missed the lush orchards full of buzzing honeybees, the leathery old man gardening with his shirt off who gave me an appreciative nod and the golden late afternoon sunlight filtering through the trees as I slowly pedaled my way up the hill. And this morning, had I not gone the exact wrong direction out of Biskupice and headed up a steep series of switchbacks towards Zálesí, I would have missed seeing this Czech man picking wildflowers, cheering me on, and then having him helpfully direct me back on course when I stopped minutes later, obviously lost.
Today ended up being a gorgeous and fast ride of about 75 miles into Brno. After yesterday’s challenges in the heat, which almost left me camped out in the dairy isle of a grocery store, I resolved to get started very early and was on the road by 5:00 am, with the moon still in the sky.
I followed an extremely well signed bike route that took me along quiet roads with rolling hills, through woods and along a pretty stream.
For second breakfast, I stopped in a little town called Chornice, where a Sunday market and country fair was just coming to life. At 8:30 am, it was already warm and in the beer garden, the first customers were enjoying a cold Czech beer or “pivo.” It looked delicious but I opted for a strong coffee and a slice of dense rye bread, honey and extra crunchy PB, and enjoyed the scene.

I sure wish I knew the story of whomever got third place. Didn’t end well evidently.
I got almost five hours of riding in before the heat once again arrived, but by then I had Brno in my sights.
One more snack (they know a thing or two about pastries here) to get me through the beautifully shaded, but steep, hills into Brno, by which time the temperature was into the high 90s. Dang, missed a spot of sunscreen again!
I made it in time for a late lunch looking out the window of my hostel and what might have been the most delicious beer of my life!






The climbing begins. You’re in your element now. I love getting lost, and am reminded of the Dave Davis mark of a good time: “I’ve officially never been here before.”
Have been wondering what you’re up to off the bike, especially on days when you finish early. Reading? Writing? Rithmetic?
Love, ric (and Kate, who loves the shot with the Pilsner)
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Love that sentiment. Time off the bike has been spent half sleeping half eating! Seriously, close to that. Some reading and some writing but I have been pretty tired after riding and mostly have wanted to relax. Yesterday was the first day I finished early and I was able to meet a friend of Martin’s in Brno for a serious Czech dinner and walk around the old town.
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Hills, streams, trees, and trick podiums – I’m getting a good feeling from the Czech landscape. How’s the bike holding up? Any issues? PS: the next time you hit a branch point where you’re like -should I have two of these pastries right now or one? Eat the second one in my honor
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Gabe, I think you are about to put Rick Steves out of a job. Your photographs and descriptions of the day’s events are simply mesmerizing.
I have to ask, though. With the hills, heat, headwinds and lack of actual pavement on occasion, what kind of average speed are you maintaining on that crazy fold-up bike?
You must be getting up pretty early and finishing fairly late to maintain your demanding 80 to 100 miles-per-day pace.
Not to mention time spent writing up the day’s events!
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Thanks Bill! I actually don’t have a bike computer with me so I don’t know exactly but I can assure you I am not going that fast! Waking up early has been key given the heat.
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Keep eating. You look skinnier than usual.
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