Jennersdorf, Austria to Maribor, Slovenia

I have been hoping for an easier day and today I got it! A more direct route, slightly cooler weather (93 degrees), plenty of downhill and a strong riding partner (Frieder, the German university student I met yesterday) all made for fast travel. We set off in the early hours from Jennersdorf into the Dreilander Naturpark, a National Park that spans the borders of Austria, Hungary and Slovenia. The bike path (radweg) was well signed and took us through beautiful and hilly terrain. 

The border of Austria and Slovenia (once the northernmost Socialist Republic within Yugoslavia) runs down the middle of this now very quiet and peaceful mountain road, and we cycled in and out of both countries many times throughout the day. 


We crossed the border again, at Gornja Radgona. Throughout the day, the mountain hill town views were wonderful, the Slovenian drivers somewhat less so. 

As we approached Maribor, on the edge of a steep vineyard, we found a row of plum trees with small purple fruit (smaller and sweeter than what I think of as Italian plums) and ate our fill, probably too many!  

 Crossing the Drava River into Maribor, I said goodbye to Frieder, a thoughtful and very good natured riding partner (his answer to everything seemed to be “why not!”), and made my way to the Pekarna Hostel, a nicely renovated building that was once a bakery, built at the turn of the century by the Austro-Hungarian army to supply bread for the nearby barracks. Because I arrived in the early afternoon, I had the luxury of spending the early evening walking around Maribor. 

    
 The old town, while still a bit rough around the edges, has a lot of soul, perhaps embodied by this grapevine which at over 400 years old, is the oldest in world.  

 

9 thoughts on “Jennersdorf, Austria to Maribor, Slovenia”

  1. Pretty crazy to think that when that grapevine was planted no European had yet set eyes on the Pacific Ocean! I remember really liking Slovenia, Gabe (though I also remember my dad complaining about the drivers!), such a pretty country. Enjoy!

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    1. Orin: Little known fact is that the Scots sailed the Pacific as early as 1427. My ancestor, Connor McCorcoran of Clan Dundonald, was running single malt on the Salish Sea before Columbus could say “West Indies”. They didn’t need no Nina, Pinta and Santa Maria — Connor hiked across the Eurasian Continent, hewed a 24-footer out of Russian oak, and hit the Inside Passage. If you look closely at Suquamish native art, you can find tartan patterns. True story.

      “The old town, while still a bit rough around the edges, has a lot of soul, perhaps embodied by this grapevine which at over 400 years old, is the oldest in world.” Gabe, perhaps the soul is in the roughness — sort of like us! It is indeed a beautiful grapevine — is it still producing? I hope I still am at 400.

      Look, man — I’ve really enjoyed traveling with you. Kate and I are heading off grid for a while so know that we’re thinking about you every day. Look forward to a catch-up when you get home — and perhaps a turtleneck fashion show? Orin — bring your best!

      Love, ric

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  2. Gabe, thanks for sharing the great pics from your ride! As you move down south, try drinking some heavier beers to help put back on some weight

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  3. Is perhaps another way of saying “Say yes to everything” and one of my favorites: “When was the last time you did something for the first time?”

    Love, Mom

    Therese Grant Sent from my iPad

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  4. Hello, friend! Just catching up on your travels and so inspired by the diversity of what you’re doing, seeing, riding, eating… It’s like having a little time machine pin hole view across Europe in my phone when I open your posts. The brief connection with a fellow travellers and the simple, open acceptance is so optimism-feeding… And the look back on the solo time struggling just hours later to realize how quickly our context changes… Love reading these. I’m sure it takes energy to put them together, especially after long day so thank you for sharing! You’ve inspired me to be a bit more so if only via instagram.

    Excited for you and Allegra to rendezvous. Sending and receiving much strength from your rides and posts.

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