After 1,800 miles and 23 consecutive days of riding, my legs were ready for a rest. And what a place for a break! Split is a gorgeous city on the Adriatic Sea surrounded by high mountains (as I learned yesterday) and with a marvelous white marble and limestone walled city called Diocletian’s Palace that dates back 1,700 years to Roman times. It is, deservedly, a popular spot. I woke up, savored my morning coffee, gave my bike a good tune and then wished the little guy a restful day off and headed out to explore the city. Wow did it feel wonderful to just walk, breathe the ocean air and enjoy the pretty harbor, narrow maze like streets, food market and old town. 

 
 
 
 I am happy to report that, like a well-trained blood hound, I immediately found the old woman in the market selling homemade sauerkraut, out of a big blue barrel.

Another customer translated for me and I told the vendor that I also make my own pickles and kraut. She looked puzzled, asked where I was from and when I told her “America” she made a funny face and laughed. 

I don’t think “America” and “kraut aficionado” fit together in her mind. Nevertheless, still chuckling, she reached into her barrel and dug out a generous helping for me, served in a little plastic bag. I ate it as I walked and it was tangy, crunchy and delicious! Later, I enjoyed what might be my favorite lunch of the trip: local sardines fried with big chunks of garlic and sprinkled with parsley and salt, served with big hunks of crusty bread and a cold beer. 

Is this heaven? Perhaps it’s just called vacation.

And then I went to the airport and look who I found? Ladies and gentlemen, I am delighted to report that Allegra Calder is on the scene (unfortunately for the time being without a bike, which Alitalia left in Rome).