Leaving Tetouan, we see the layered Rif Mountains in the distance, today’s destination. The north of Morocco is surprisingly green, with pine forests and olive farms, unlike the Atlas Mountains and Sahara Desert of southern Morocco, where we biked five years ago. As we ride, we see a number of lakes and reservoirs and small farms on the hillsides, sheep, goats and cattle grazing and raptors overhead. We also pass a small truck that has been converted into a mobile espresso stand. Brilliant.

The road to Chefchaouen is being widened, with the addition of large culverts to direct rainwater. The abutting hillsides also seem to be undergoing a planned process of reforestation, presumably to help prevent mudslides during the heavy seasonal rains and to direct the water into the reservoirs. Despite the road work, we enjoy the ride and appreciate the shouts of encouragement we get from the side of the road and passing cars. We stop for a snack in what cannot be described as anything other than a dusty crossroads of a town.

Coffee and eggs are all that’s offered and they are delicious, served drizzled with (bathed in?) olive oil and served with fresh bread, a bit of cheese and herbed black olives.

Chefchaouen, a small town in the mountains, is known for the blue painted buildings of the old town. It’s a bustling and picturesque place. As we ride the steep final 6 km into town, the lively and somewhat chaotic energy of the Moroccan street once again envelops us. Pedestrians walk confidently and blithely into the street (right in front of us) without looking, cars roll blindly out of driveways (right in front of us) and trucks stop wherever convenient (right in front of us). It’s a very different and much more democratic understanding of what a street’s function is and it’s actually kind of fun anticipating and dodging obstacles, but it does take some getting used to.

The old town of Chefchaouen feels like an abstract maze, building after building painted a different shade of blue, all constructed haphazardly along narrow cobblestone passageways that fork off at irregular angles, dead-end unexpectedly and climb and descend the hillside via uneven staircases. Walking around, we end up going in circles before eventually finding the main plaza. It’s a captivating experience.