Wet wet wet. Even the sheep want to stay out of the rain today.

Not us.

Despite the downpour and heavy winds, the ride along the Rallarvegen is beautiful, at least what we can see if it. It is certainly invigorating and we are thankful for the extra layers our friends Peter and Kasia have lent us. And why do they not need the extra layers? Because, being intelligent and experienced locals, they opt for a cozy morning sipping hot coffee in the hytte before catching the train and meeting us later.

By mid afternoon, we pull into Geilo just as the rain stops. We wring out our gloves and socks and change clothes at a beautiful church that has been transformed into a community center with a daycare, group meeting rooms and a cafe with coffee and pastries sold entirely on the honor system. Peter and Kasia pick us up, toss our muddy bikes into their car and we drive to their home on a farm in Udval, one valley over. We take warm showers and they make a fire to warm us up and help dry out our wet clothes. We enjoy a lovely dinner of salad, pickles, fresh multi grain bread and delicious Norwegian cheese. And for dessert, homemade spelt crepes with whipped cream, honey and fresh berries.

As dusk approaches, the clouds dissipate and we get fleeting blue skies at 9:30 pm. Peter tells us their cherry tree is having a banner year, so we wander outside and pick cherries to round out the evening. It’s wonderful to be in the company of friends and to feel so welcomed.