After assembling my travel bike (somewhat less quietly than I had hoped) I spent a wonderful day yesterday exploring Helsinki with Peter, my generous host. Helsinki has a very approachable scale, gorgeous architecture and a coastline dotted with little inlets and harbors, whose marinas, parks and small passenger ferries make for a lot of visual interest. This morning I am off to Tallinn, on a high speed ferry across the Gulf of Finland, and the riding begins! Hope the legs are ready for it.

   
 Bike before and after. Small wheels make for easy airline transport and inquisitive looks.

  
Bike parking in Munkkiniemen (Peter’s neighborhood), pronounced Monkey-ani-amen

  
Mixed use development in downtown Helsinki

  
Chapel of Silence, a beautiful and austere chapel that reminded me of the Rothko Chapel, built for Helsinki’s year as world design capital in 2012. 

   
 
The gorgeous Helsinki train station, where one wing has been turned into what is probably the most exquisite looking Burger King anywhere. I have mixed feelings: the Anerican fast food initially sort of spoils the effect, though it was also packed with people eating burgers and enjoying the architecture.

  
No burger for me. Delicious salmon soup with dark rye bread for lunch. I meant to take a picture but was so hungry I got distracted! 

  
   
We took a quick trip via foot ferry out to Suomenlinna, an island fortress off the coast that is now a large park, artist colony and favorite local picnic spot. This was originally an ornate Russian Orthodox Church, with a huge onion dome, transformed info a much more austere and practical Lutheran Church (that doubles as a lighthouse) after Finland declared independence in 1917.

  
My only regret from Helsinki is that the public saunas were all closed for mid summer break. That, the salmon soup and Peter’s hospitality all provide plenty of reasons to come back!