If there is one thing I have learned about bike touring, it is that you can experience a vast array of different conditions and corresponding emotions over the course of a single day. Today was like that. I woke up early and after a big bowl of müsli, started pedaling. The morning was gorgeous, with virtually no traffic, fields dotted with Hawks and large egrets, and beautiful scenery.
   
   
 
Cows in Estonia are apparently very punctual.

After about 25 miles, I turned south towards Parnü and it immediately started to rain. Not hard, but a consistent NW style drizzle with a headwind. That made the next 30 miles a challenge, but also made arriving in Parnü for lunch that much more enjoyable. 
  
Parnü

 
Lünch 

In case you are wondering, those sandwiches are salmon and sprat on black bread with butter. Sublime, though come to think of it a little mustard wouldn’t have hurt. On a bike trip, my appetite is always with me. Sometimes lurking in the background but often very assertively grumbling “feed me now.” I love it because that sort of hunger, which we rarely feel in our day to day lives, makes eating so elemental and satisfying.

I waited out the rain with a second cup of hot tea and then jumped back in my bike during a sun break. The remaining 30 miles took me south along the Baltic Sea, through small towns with brightly colored wooden houses and in and out of light rain showers and sun. 

 Baltic hoop dreams

 
Despite that sun, it’s actually raining on me right now! 

I arrived at a wonderful campsite right on the sea, where I was greeted by an earnest young host who told me that because I had arrived on bike I was guaranteed a spot for free, and that they have hot showers. What a country. 

 My camp site.
  

 After cleaning up and eating, a big storm rolled in off of the sea. I got into my tent just in time for a torrential downpour to begin. Back to the basic and elemental joys of bike touring: being warm and dry inside a tent as you listen to the rain pound down outside.

  
Here comes the storm!

One final note for today: Many of you know that my wonderful mom has a deep and long held affection for Catholic iconography, especially saints. Before departing, she gave me an image of the Virgin of Guadeloupe (the patron saint of Mexico) to bring with me on my trip through Eastern Europe. It was an unusual choice, to say the least, but so far she’s vigilantly keeping an eye on things from my seat post.