My what a difference a day makes! After falling asleep to the sound of rainfall on the tent fly, I awoke to a phone call from Allegra, clear pinkish skies and a bright almost full moon still in the sky. An auspicious start. I was determined to get on the road early and get a jump on the headwinds, which have seemed to get stronger in the afternoon. The early morning was splendid, as I rode down a beautiful rolling farm road lined with verdant trees, listening to birds, watching cows graze and enjoying the crisp air in my lungs.
After yesterday’s struggles with wind and driving rain, today I felt like I was flying. Yesterday afternoon I was measuring progress by counting, through wet glasses, the road markers at 100 meter intervals and today the kilometer signs just kept zipping by.
I covered about 20 miles, a quarter of the day’s total, by 8 am and treated myself to an indulgent second breakfast.
More pretty towns, a few Siviet era housing blocks and 30 miles later, I came to a massive wind farm with (predictably) all the turbines facing in precisely my direction of travel. At least someone is benefitting from these headwinds!
On a roll, I stopped for lunch and ordered at random off of the menu (sadly indecipherable to me). And just like hitting a 3 pointer with my eyes closed, look what showed up! Beet soup with chopped up egg, fresh dill and sour cream! Nothing but net!
Finally, since I know a lot of you are just dying to know what the best Baltic candy bar is, I have done some important research over the past few days and have answers.
It is most definitely NOT the Hematgenas, which tasted like an enormous and slightly mealy Tootsie Roll. And it was not the Tupla Is Nutz, despite the excellent name. Althouth the Manija was tasty, the Toffelnut’s sublime crisp texture and hazelnut and toffee center was the clear winner. There you have it.
PS-Thank you for all the great emails and comments. It is such a joy to share this trip with others.
smallchainringbigworld 
Dude, Tupla IS nuts! I find myself wishing I could join for a few days every time I read your posts . . . but reading along is a close second—-
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That would be fun! Some day man! We can bring James and make him carry the heavy stuff! 🙂
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As I snarf down a Snickers bar after the morning swim and hot tub, I can imagine myself a fellow traveler overcoming all adversity (Ha!). Thanks for the daily reports, Gabe.
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Living vicariously through your journey, Gabe! You were smart to leave town. It is hot as HALA here, and it isn’t just the weather.
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So I have heard Faith. Hope the politics don’t detract from your well deserved sense of accomplishment at guiding us through a hard but ultimately very productive process.
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Loving every story and photo. So wonderful to ‘see’ through your discerning eyes and vivid words a part of the world I have yet to visit. Can’t wait for the winds to be at your back for a time!
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So glad to hear it!
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Oh, man! I had my money on Tupla! Just shows to go you: close your eyes when ordering, when riding into the wind carry a generator and next time bring your high tops and a b-ball apparently! Take it easy but take it (Guthrie?), as my great aunt loves to say. And while she doesn’t know from bicycling, she does bake a mean strussel so there’s wisdom somewhere in there, no? With you, Gabe.
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Gabriel Is Nutz. That’s a t-shirt, buddy.
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