As you would expect, the border between Panemunė, Lithuania and Sovetsk, Russia doesn’t get a lot of traffic. Which is why, when I rolled up on my bike at 6:30 am on Sunday morning, I got a lot of attention. And when I say attention, I suppose I really mean scrutiny, which is not what you want at a Russian border crossing.
Unfortunately, I have only myself to blame. I have the habit of clipping various important documents to the back page of my passport, including my Global Entry and medical cards, airline itinerary, etc. When I handed my passport over to the sleepy boarder agent, I neglected to remove those papers. But more importantly I forgot that I had tucked $100 of “just in case” money in there as well. All of which is to say that the border agent unclipped the papers and found the $100. I was initially concerned that he would take it but he asked me a few stern questions in Russian, to which I just smiled and shrugged my shoulders. He seemed to act as though I was trying to bribe him (who knows why, since I had a visa and honestly can’t imagine anyone trying to bribe their way IN to Kaliningrad). Long story short, various phone calls later his boss and another agent emerged, frowning. I apologized and explained my mistake, showed them my route and bike gear. They asked a few questions (in English), realized I was just foolish and not malicious and fortunately took a lot more of an interest in my route than the $100, ultimately seeing me off with waves and smiles.
Beautiful start with the moon still visible
Lunch one
Lunch two
I made it to Kaliningrad and met my Warmshowers host Valery and his lovely family. They live in a small and modest flat but were as generous and welcoming as could be imagined. When I arrived, it turned out we were both wearing Argentina shirts so I knew all would be fine. As seems to be happening regularly, Valery welcomed me with a shot of cold vodka, plus delicious chicken soup and blini filled with cheese and homemade black currant jam.
smallchainringbigworld 
Valery…what a girl’s name. But more importantly, what a day! Even your adventure seems to be having an adventure! I hope you’re packing away bits of all that fermented drink and slaw to bring home and cross fertilize our crocks and jugs of brew and SCOBY!
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The kvass is really quite delicious, with a mildly sweet and mellow malt flavor. We need to try to make some this fall. I think artisanal kvass could be the next big thing. 🙂
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No it couldn’t. Maybe Minsk = Maybe Kvass.
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Dude, should have just told those border agents that you were on the HALA committee, which promulgated all kinds of socialist blather, and those guys would have whizzed you through! 🙂
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Gabe,
I’m Sheryl’s husband (Doug). Your photography is excellent. Great composition and subject choices. You now have a blog fan. I’m so envious I have tuned our bikes and we are now putting in progressively more butt time on longer and longer rides.
Doug
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Wonderful! So glad to hear it Doug! Have fun out there.
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Great post, Gabe. Seeing the Soviet architecture in its native seat like that has me thinking about how those iconic forms are one of the long legacies of the USSR – when I think about civic construction – Havana, DF for example – if it’s not greco-roman, it feels like Kaliningrad.
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Well, you’re safely in and out of Russia! We love the photograph of you and Valery in your Argentina t-shirts drinking vodka. If you still have the $100 when you get to Greece, it could make a welcome gift to someone who does you a big favour – perhaps by sharing a glass of retsina or metaxa with you and Allegra!
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Isn’t that true!
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Good stuff, man — just like Reagan, killing the Soviets with kindness. I’m guessing those former KGB guys only deal in stacks of Benjamins.
Suggest not putting your food where your crotch goes.
The multi-family building is exactly what people think the HALA recommendations will lead to in Magnolia and Wedgwood. This place is sinking. Buy the Czech nightclub. Get Allegra some high boots and a fur coat, rent a modest flat, start an artisan label for beet soup and fresh bread. Don’t come back. We’ll come see you.
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