What a tough, spectacular and gratifying day. Things got off to a bit of a rough start, when at 1:00 AM I awoke with an infernal leg cramp, but I did some late night tent yoga and rolled it out using perhaps the oddest item I am carrying, a lacrosse ball, exactly for this purpose. By 5:00 AM my legs felt as fresh as can be expected for my 16th consecutive day of riding. I ate my customary musli breakfast, rolled out early and made my way through a Hungarian national park, beautifully lush and rolling vineyards, and crossed back into Austria just in time for morning coffee in a sweet small town establishment.  

 As I enjoyed my strong coffee elegantly presented with sparkling mineral water, these local gentlemen, who seemed to have a good natured wise-ass comment for everyone who walked in, were on their first beers of the day. 

  It was then into the hills, through two Austrian national parks, and many small hilltop towns, for a day of climbing. 

  I love to ride in the mountains and today was no exception, but I hit grades of almost 20% twice today, which means standing on the pedals and grinding away in my easiest gear.  

 And now a confession: I had to push my bike up one of the steep gravelly inclines. By lunchtime, I was quite fatigued, mentally and physically, but then two things happened which brought my spirits back. First, I passed this sign, which reminded me that I was justified in feeling tired!  

 And second, a smiling, super cool German university student named Frieder rolled up next to me and we ended up riding the rest of the day together, which made the hills and kilometers just fade away.  

He is riding from Hamburg to Croatia and we had lots of notes to compare. By late afternoon, the intense heat was bearing down as we slowly climbed hill after hill. But then, as if on cue, we passed a small, clear river and looked at each other with the identical thought. This may not look like much but it was deliciously cool water and my whole body breathed a long sigh of relief and thanks when I submerged myself.  

 We both laughed giddily it felt so refreshing and unexpected. We are now camped at a little campground in Jennersdorf, where I had one of my favorite dinners yet.  

 Having someone to ride with reminds me how great it is to share adventures like this. Though I wanted and have appreciated the challenge of being out on my own, today marks over two and a half weeks since I left Seattle, which is remarkably the longest Allegra and I have spent apart since she moved from England to NYC (and later that summer to Boston) so we could be together. I am so looking forward to her joining the trip in just over a week.