What a big and exhilarating day! We slipped out of Dubrovnic early, our only company on the smooth white marble streets of the old city a few pigeons and an early morning shopkeeper sweeping the sidewalk in the golden light of dawn. Empty and quiet, the early morning may be when the city is at its most dignified and majestic.

Heading south, with the morning sun already warm on our backs, we climbed into the hills and rode through a beautiful valley filled with old stone homes, fruit orchards and cypress trees. It was pure cycling bliss, the kind of morning that makes you thankful to be alive and we almost effortlessly glided through the gorgeous terrain. The beauty would only increase throughout the day, but the easy miles were about to come to an end. 

 

The mountains in the distance form the border of Croatia, Bosnia and Montenegro.

 We crossed into the much poorer but stunningly beautiful country of Montenegro and pedaled around the Bay of Kotor, surrounded by massive mountains that fall abruptly to the sea. Also massive was the number of men of all sizes in tight speedo swimtrunks!

 
 A quick ferry crossing on a barely seaworthy boat had us laughing out loud at the American pop music blaring over the PA system. No safety announcements for that vessel. 
 
From there, the hard work began as we climbed out of Kotor and over the mountains you can see in the distance, almost 4,000 feet up on a single lane road with over 30 tight switchbacks, each one revealing a view more incredible than the next.

 

Here is a snapshot of a section of the road. 
    

 
   
Arriving at the top we celebrated with a delicious pastry. I say “we” in the royal sense, as Allegra almost succeeded in eating my half. Doesn’t she look guilty? 

 

Down the other side to Cetinje we flew, enjoying views towards the interior of Montenegro, with tired legs, light hearts and empty stomachs.