One could get used to the beautiful morning riding we have been doing; leaving before 5:00 AM while the moon and stars are still high in the sky, the air is cool and the roads are empty, watching the sky slowly lighten to an orange glow and then, just in time for a short baklava break, seeing the sun rise over the mountains. 

Today’s pedal along the Gulf of Corinth and later along the Saronic Gulf was spectacular, through pretty little fishing villages with older residents (where are the younger Greeks?) walking along the ocean, enjoying leisurely early morning swims and sitting in the cafes that seem to be everywhere here, all offering €1 coffee and ample company to while away the time. 

 With thousands of miles of coastline, there’s a lot of waterfront property in Greece, and it is used for all sorts of purposes, from stout stone houses with colorful wooden shades to little grocery stores and small Orthodox churches. 

Since entering Greece, we have noticed an unusual phenomenon. Have you ever felt the clarinet is underrated, or perhaps not taken as seriously as it should be? Take heart, then, as there are concert posters for what one supposes are clarinet virtuosos all over the place in Greece, taped to bus stops, electricity poles, inside stores, you name it.  But why are the headshots so awkward?

 Today’s beautiful waterfront riding was interrupted by a fortunately short slog through the busy industrial towns of Isthmus (which as the name implies, separates the two bodies of water we rode along, but was a narrow stretch of car repair lots along a busy road) and Panorama, which does have panoramic views but sadly not of the ocean any longer. 

More than any other country on this trip, the transitions from gorgeous natural and human scale built environments to utilitarian and often very ugly industrial scenery happen very abruptly here. This is just a short distance after Panorama, which seems a better fit for the name.

By afternoon, we arrived at our hotel, hot and tired as usual but delighted to be staying at a place right on the water, where they served us cold beer, a big tomato, cucumber and olive salad and a plate of fried potatoes with smoky eggplant spread. Even better, after lunch we relaxed contentedly by the warm turquoise water! Those legs were ready for a break.

It’s amazing to think that five weeks ago I was riding next to the chilly and austere Baltic Sea and that tomorrow we will pedal into Athens along this sunny coastline!