And just when it seemed like our last day’s ride into Athens was going to be easy and straightforward…
We woke up a bit later this morning, listening to the sound of the waves as the sun came up, enjoying a second cup of strong coffee and a delicious breakfast of thick plain yogurt, melon, bread and honey. Our ride took us along the pretty undulating coastline, across a narrow channel on a small ferry and over the hilly island of Salamina.
For being so close to Athens, Salmina was surprisingly bucolic, with olive trees and others with small pink fruit we later learned were pistachios.
Across Salamina, we got to a crowded and hectic ferry dock and asked for the one to Pireaus, Athens’ main ferry terminal. “Boat” the lady told us, pointed and smiled. Tickets in hand, we rode on to the boat seconds before it departed. What joy and triumph we felt, rumbling across the water towards Athens, until it occurred to us that the boat was heading west and not south. Yes, we took the wrong ferry and instead of landing at the dock right near our rented apartment, ended up with a final ride from one extreme end of this teeming and congested megacity to the other, on a particularly hot afternoon. It was actually a very interesting detour, as getting lost often is, and it took us through a number of working class neighborhoods we never would have seen otherwise. And, along the way we found a bubble wrap store, perfect for packing up our bikes.
Arriving, finally, at our apartment in the hip graffiti covered Psiri neighborhood felt like a major victory.

We cleaned up, relaxed in our cool art filled abode, and packed up our bikes before heading out for a delicious feast at a local restaurant called Nikitas (whose son’s eyes bulged out when we gave him our rather substantial order).
What a challenging, exhilarating and fun adventure this has been. As the security guard I met in Maribor, Slovenia told me, “One must travel slowly for the mind to be free.” I couldn’t agree more, and would add that bicycle travel also allows one to notice and absorb the rich details that might otherwise pass in a blur from behind a windshield: the smell of Baltic pine forests, Latvian bakeries or Greek olive groves, the taste of ripe apples, plums and figs enjoyed along the way, the people who watch perplexedly or wave encouragingly as you pass, and the rain, sun, wind and hills which are a constant reminder of the earth’s beauty and indifference to our comfort. On the ride today, Allegra and I spoke of the feeling of being truly present and alive one gets from adventure, exploration and pushing limits. I feel a very strong sense of gratitude for this experience, the miles pedaled on my own and those shared, the easy and the hard, and hope I am lucky enough to have many more adventures. But we also spoke about the importance of home and the community of friends and family that form the foundation of who we are. For that reason, I am also excited to return to the place I know is as extraordinary and special as any I have visited.
I have never had a blog before and it’s been a lot of fun to share this experience, so thank you for being a part of it.




Gave, when real estate tanks again, you have a future as a travel writer and photographer. I hate to see your trip end, as I have loved accompanying you vicariously. You and Allegra show such relish in the experience with your pictures.
Anyway, I look forward to having Allegra back in class, so that is compensation for the blog ending. Oopah! Mary
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Bravo! As I worry about what I should have done yesterday and should do tomorrow, I have been more than delighted to tuck myself into your pace line. So happy for both of you.
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Congratulations on your arrival – what a trip!
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Wow! You made it all the way from Helsinki to Athens. What am accomplishment.
I’m exhausted just from reading your daily blog posts!
Thanks for sharing your amazing trip in such splendid detail and looking forward to celebrating your return to Seattle.
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Great job Both of you. Fun to read and just the right length. And Gabe don’t worry there’s plenty of HALA work still to do.
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Reading your blog and viewing your photos has been a wonderful addition to my summer activities !
Best to you and Allegra!
Mark
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Excellent, and congratulations Gabe and Allegra!
What an accomplishment.
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Serendibubblewrapitous discovery and adventure. Nice finish! Thanks so much for taking us along on the journey. I’ll miss the postings but will celebrate your arrival home.
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I’m so impressed (but not at all surprised) that you made it through to the end. I completely agree that adventure and exploration often brings a refreshing sense of clarity and gratitude to the surface. You two are certainly good models for how to find good adventure.
We will be happy to have you back in Seattle. Have a safe trip home and thank you for sharing your journey with us!
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Thank you! 🙂
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Savor your journey and the memories. Another great adventure completed. Live is about exploring, relishing being comfortable and uncomfortable, and pushing ones limits. Your horizons have been expanded and certainly ideas have been formed for next adventures through these recent inspirations from the road….
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Thanks again Martin for the great suggestions along the way and personal connection in Brno! Can’t wait to get a Czech beer and talk about future adventures!
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It begs the question, at what pace shall you travel at home? Or, how shall you keep your mind free once back at it?
Thank you for putting the energy and intention behind this blog, Gabe. I imagine it was not always easy to do following each ride, but what a treat it’s been to hear and see a bit of your experience — inward and external. Safe journey home.
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Thanks Shannon! Such important questions.
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Your posts got more poetic and philosophical towards the end, Gabe… and, sadly, with less food porn. I really enjoyed following your adventures! makes me want to go bike touring.
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Thanks Natasha! 🙂 I saw a few
families, including a French couple with three kids, out on bike tours which was super humbling and inspiring too. Impossible to feel like you are working too hard when you see parents go by carrying all their stuff and a few kids!
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You are an inspiration, gabe (and allegra)! will be glad to have you two back in Seattle, but you guys also look perfectly at home out there on the road. I’m sure there will be more adventures to come. excited to see you.
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The chronicle of your journey was incredible, from start to finish. Thank you for taking us along with you! Looking forward to your next blogged adventure so we can travel along vicariously again.
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