​Long before Sri Lanka was named Ceylon by the British, this beautiful island was an important trading partner of the Persians and Arabs, who referred to it as Sarandīb, the origin of the word “serendipity.” It seems fitting, then, for us to have arrived without an itinerary of any kind. 

Bike touring is the perfect vehicle to pursue serendipity, and after fueling ourselves with a delicious breakfast of fish curry, dosas, and coconut sambal (and of course Nescafe, the ubiquitous morning beverage in coffee producing nations the world over) we set off from Negombo north along the coast. 

The coastal road is a narrow ribbon of pockmarked pavement right next to the Indian Ocean. Small scale fishing is a way of life here, and in village after village we see people bringing in and selling all manner of seafood. 

Sri Lankan roads are a riot of activity, with tuk tuks zipping past with a friendly toot of the horn, men in sarongs riding bikes to work, cows wandering aimlessly, delivery trucks with elaborate hand painted signs proudly proclaiming “fully insured,” and people selling every item imaginable from roadside stands. The road seems to have far more potholes than rules, but traffic speeds are slow and everyone seems to have a smile or a thumbs up for us. It makes for entertaining and seemingly safe riding, if a bit slow. 

Back on the bikes and into the 90 degree afternoon heat and humidity, we pedal on to Puttalum and rather serendipitously find ourselves at a small and ornate hotel that has been in the same family for over 100 years. They welcome us with papaya smoothies followed by afternoon tea and a dinner of various amazing curries – cashew and green pea and eggplant mango being our favorites. The manager spent 12 years in the UAE working as a chef, part of the huge diaspora of Phillapinos, South Indians and Sri Lankans who underpin the economy of the Middle East. It’s great to once again be out exploring the world.