Kenmare to Cahersiveen, Ireland

Today’s ride takes us through the craggy peaks of Ireland’s tallest* mountain range, the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, and through the verdant bogs, wild oak and ash forests of the Glencar Conservation Area. It’s another spectacular day of riding, the roads narrow and quiet, the weather mostly clear and the natural beauty  of each bend in the road surpassed by the next.

We take our time and enjoy the journey, stopping periodically to eat blackberries. As we get closer to town, we share hellos with people walking and enjoy the outrageous fuschia hedges that line the road, humming with the sound of bees.

Entering Cahersiveen, I am struck by the houses, which seem to be encircled by driveways. It doesn’t seem like people have huge numbers of cars, so it’s not a need for abundant parking. Is it because of the constant rain and a desire to pull up right to the front door? If so, why not a garage? Do they drive in laps around the house? These are the sort of pressing questions we debate on the bike.

We arrive at our one room B&B and are greeted by a kind and disheveled couple (and their enormous Italian sheep herding dog), who used to run a plant nursery on the property. I inquire about the various apple trees lining the driveway and we are whisked off on a tour, where we meet three more dogs, a flock of ducks that run in unison, chickens, and horses. The property could use a bit of a trim and an organizational intervention, to say the least, but the gardens are lush and abundant. We munch on different heirloom apple varieties and the couple enthusiastically picks vegetables for us. Fresh arugula (rocket), beets, kale, nasturtium, broad beans and cucumbers all get deposited into a bag, which we turn into dinner in our little kitchenette. With some slices of fresh Irish soda bread, it hits the spot.

* At 1,038 metres, Carrauntoohil is Ireland’s highest peak. A foothill by our standards, it nonetheless has a magisterial presence.

7 thoughts on “Kenmare to Cahersiveen, Ireland”

  1. I have solo hike the Reeks. As I recall, I hiked up the Gap of Dunloe and then branched off to social trails created by sheep and slogged my way to the top of Carintouil (sp?). Was one of your pass rides up the gap of dunloe? it was quite popular with horse drawn carriages and a very nice place for scones and jam half way up.

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  2. You’ve taken me back to my visit many years ago wih my stepbrother, James Hayes, and his wife, Lorraine, both active artists who have lived now in Bray, just outide Dublin, for many years. I stayed with them in Caherisaveen and we took a road trip (James navigated the twisty turns mountainous roads with ease) one day through the Macgillucuddy reeks. I got a kick out of the herd of cattle which blocked our path (a “traffic jam” in that area), as well as the name of the reeks ( my paternal grandfather used to affectionately call me “Mrs. Macgillucuddy”). Such a lush and beautiful part of the world.

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  3. sorry, I added a correction note to the wrong blog post: I should have written “maternal” grandfather, not “paternal ” (must be thinking of our dad, Allegra).😅💞

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  4. I happen to have some experience with Irish houses, because I spent the holidays there in 1999 including New Years Eve at a bar in Cork called The Blackbriar where a band called “I Can Tina” played only Ike and Tina Turner covers.

    In Ireland, houses have driveways all the way around due to a combination of historical tradition, weather conditions, practicality, and ease of access for modern utility and drainage systems. This design creates a durable, low-maintenance apron around the entire home. 

    Historical practice

    • Legacy of pathways: Early Irish homes often had bare-earth pathways connecting the house to outbuildings like wells and sheds. As these outbuildings became obsolete with modern plumbing and electricity, the tradition of a paved apron remained.
    • Shift from soil to solid surfaces: The pathways were historically left unplanted to withstand heavy foot and animal traffic. Over time, as materials became available, these heavily used walkways were paved with gravel, concrete, or tarmac, which were easier to maintain than soil. 

    Weather and drainage

    • Prevents mud and water damage: Ireland’s famously damp and rainy climate can quickly turn unpaved areas into mud. A driveway that goes around the house prevents the yard from becoming a muddy, boggy mess and keeps that mud from being tracked inside.
    • Manages rainwater runoff: A continuous paved surface helps divert rainwater away from the home’s foundation. This is a critical feature, especially since many Irish homes are built with concrete foundations placed directly into the earth. This runoff management helps protect against dampness and water seepage. 

    Modern practicality

    • Accessibility for utilities: The paved apron allows for easy access to modern utility points such as water, sewage, and drainage systems that serve the house.
    • Increased parking and maneuverability: A full-surround driveway provides ample space for parking multiple vehicles for residents and visitors, which is especially useful on rural properties. It also makes it easy to move a car around the house for loading or maintenance. 

    Maintenance and aesthetics

    • Prevents foundation damage: While some people find the look unappealing, concrete or tarmac aprons are sometimes preferred because they prevent plant roots from damaging a home’s concrete foundation.
    • Low upkeep: Paved surfaces require less long-term maintenance than a landscaped garden. This is a practical solution for homeowners who prefer not to spend extensive time on gardening and lawn care.
    • Easy cleaning: The surface can be quickly and easily cleaned with a power washer. 

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  5. Beautiful! And your tactful description of what sounds like a rather run-down B&B – and your photograph of what looks like a great meal – are fascinating!

    Eat all the potatoes you can! It’s like eating rice in China. Recognition of national traditions and tragedies.

    Love, E

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